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Purple Phoenix Games (2266 KP) rated Custom Heroes in Tabletop Games
Feb 7, 2022
You know that feeling when you play a game that FEELS familiar, but has really improved on certain aspects? Take, for example, the famed “Yahtzee mechanic” that has been extended and improved upon by so many games. Or the “I Cut, You Choose mechanic” that has shown up in several titles with slight variations to improve it? Well such was my feeling when cracking open Custom Heroes. I thought to myself, “Man, this feels natural in my hands, but it’s better.” I know I left myself open for tons of jokes here, but this is a PG(ish) forum, so keep it classy, everyone.
Custom Heroes is a fantasy/sci-fi-themed, customization, ladder-climbing, trick-taking card game for two to six players. In it players are using their hand of cards to win tricks (a la Tichu). The twist is that each card is able to be upgraded by using various Advancements that are added directly into the same sleeve as the base card. The winner of the game is they who amass 10 or more points and win a subsequent hand.
Before the first game after unboxing, all Character Cards will need to be sleeved. These Character Cards are numbered from 1-10 and come in six sets (one set of 10 cards for each player, at max player count). To setup the game, each player chooses a Player Screen to hide their resources and provide the scoring table. Shuffle the Character cards and deal each player a hand of 10 cards. For this review, I will be using the two-player rules. Players also begin with 1VP Token and 2 Power Tokens, along with an Ascended Form Advancement Card and Kodora Advancement Card. In a two-player game, players begin with three total Advancement Cards, as shown in the photo below. The rest of the VP Tokens and Power Tokens are placed (or thrown, in my case) on the table, and the remainder of the Advancement Cards are shuffled and placed in the bag to be drawn randomly throughout the game. The battle for tricks may now begin!
As with all (most?) trick-taking games, Custom Heroes is played over a series of rounds. However, Custom Heroes is played across three phases: Upkeep, Main, Scoring. During the Upkeep phase, the deck of Character Cards is shuffled and 10 cards are dealt to each player. On each player’s turn during the Main phase, they will decide if they would like to upgrade any card by sleeving Advancement Cards along with the Character Cards. These Advancement Cards are clear plastic and will alter the value of the card, provide special abilities, or provide modifiers to the card’s value. Sleeving new Advancements may be done at any time during the turn, before playing it, but the caveat is that ALL cards are shuffled and dealt to players after every round, so the chances of receiving that same card in future hands diminishes with each additional player at the table!
Once Advancements have been applied, or whilst applying, the players will determine the lead play. A lead could be a single card or several matching cards in a set. The following player will need to play a card, or cards, of the same number, but of higher value. For example, if a single 7 was led, only a single 8, 9, or 10 will beat it. However, if a pair of 5s was led, a pair of 6-10 will beat that lead. Players may pass if they cannot, or choose not to, beat the current trick, and can engage in play on a future trick. Once a player has run out of cards for the hand, or all players have passed. The first player to run out of cards, or the last player to play a card, wins the hand and receives the benefits listed on the scoring table shown below. Again, when a player earns 10 VP and wins a hand, they win!
A few notes about Advancement Cards. The Ascended Form card given to all players at setup will allow the player to win the trick for that round once played. It is essentially a wild insta-win card. That is, unless another player plays an Ascended Form on top of it and wins with the most recent Ascended Form. The Kodora card, however, can be played to the player’s tableau instead of as a card in a trick. When played this way, the player “bets” two VP Tokens that they will win the hand. If they do, they gain an additional two VP Tokens, but lose their bet if they do not finish in 1st Place. All other Advancement Cards may be added to the Character Card sleeve as long as the associated gem icon at the bottom is not already present in the sleeve. As there are four gem slots on Character Cards, each Character may be upgraded four total times.
Components. This one comes with a number of components of different types. The tokens are all small, but not too small, the bag is cool, but obviously the main attractions are the clear plastic cards and sleeves common to the Card Crafting System that AEG produced. I think I first saw this idea of layering plastic cards on top of one another in the Gloom series, though it may have existed even before that. I adore this idea and really fell in love with it when I was big into Mystic Vale, also from John D. Clair and AEG. So components for me get a big ol’ seal of approval. I love ’em.
Similarly, I think the gameplay gets a big seal of approval from me. Like I said, I was big into Mystic Vale for a while, but I think that Cusom Heroes, to me, trumps it in many ways. Though both boxes mention games approximately taking around 45 minutes, I found Mystic Vale to be much longer, mostly due to having to explain and re-explain rules and oddities to players at the table. It feels like Custom Heroes has cut down the complexity of gameplay, especially for newer gamers. I can bring out Custom Heroes and have it taught and played in under an hour – a feat I still haven’t mastered with Mystic Vale.
I think that I also prefer the trick-taking style of Custom Heroes a bit more. My family really enjoys playing Euchre at family reunions and other events, and while Custom Heroes isn’t a Euchre clone at all, the feel is very similar. There is still a led card, and cards that are more valuable to be played atop them in order to win tricks. While there isn’t necessarily any suits in Custom Heroes, the ability to trump an entire hand with an Ascended Form Advancement or other Advancements adds a layer (see what I did there) of strategy and tactics that is just so satisfying. I am a big fan of games that allow players to upgrade their starting resources, or level up their characters, and this one fits right inside a little 60 minute pocket and is relatively easy to teach and play.
All in all, I am so glad I found this one at my FLGS (well, not super local), and there was a big sale going on. I picked it up solely for the Card Crafting System logo and it was a big hit for me. This will completely replace Mystic Vale for me in my collection, and I couldn’t be happier with that. If you are looking for something quick, easy, but full of choices and modifications, this is certainly the game for you. It’s the game for me, and that’s why Purple Phoenix Games gives Custom Heroes a mostly-upgraded 5 / 6. Could this reach into my Top 10 someday, or earn a Golden Feather Award? It is entirely possible. We shall see with more and more plays. I am excited to give it many more plays and find out! Are you in?
Custom Heroes is a fantasy/sci-fi-themed, customization, ladder-climbing, trick-taking card game for two to six players. In it players are using their hand of cards to win tricks (a la Tichu). The twist is that each card is able to be upgraded by using various Advancements that are added directly into the same sleeve as the base card. The winner of the game is they who amass 10 or more points and win a subsequent hand.
Before the first game after unboxing, all Character Cards will need to be sleeved. These Character Cards are numbered from 1-10 and come in six sets (one set of 10 cards for each player, at max player count). To setup the game, each player chooses a Player Screen to hide their resources and provide the scoring table. Shuffle the Character cards and deal each player a hand of 10 cards. For this review, I will be using the two-player rules. Players also begin with 1VP Token and 2 Power Tokens, along with an Ascended Form Advancement Card and Kodora Advancement Card. In a two-player game, players begin with three total Advancement Cards, as shown in the photo below. The rest of the VP Tokens and Power Tokens are placed (or thrown, in my case) on the table, and the remainder of the Advancement Cards are shuffled and placed in the bag to be drawn randomly throughout the game. The battle for tricks may now begin!
As with all (most?) trick-taking games, Custom Heroes is played over a series of rounds. However, Custom Heroes is played across three phases: Upkeep, Main, Scoring. During the Upkeep phase, the deck of Character Cards is shuffled and 10 cards are dealt to each player. On each player’s turn during the Main phase, they will decide if they would like to upgrade any card by sleeving Advancement Cards along with the Character Cards. These Advancement Cards are clear plastic and will alter the value of the card, provide special abilities, or provide modifiers to the card’s value. Sleeving new Advancements may be done at any time during the turn, before playing it, but the caveat is that ALL cards are shuffled and dealt to players after every round, so the chances of receiving that same card in future hands diminishes with each additional player at the table!
Once Advancements have been applied, or whilst applying, the players will determine the lead play. A lead could be a single card or several matching cards in a set. The following player will need to play a card, or cards, of the same number, but of higher value. For example, if a single 7 was led, only a single 8, 9, or 10 will beat it. However, if a pair of 5s was led, a pair of 6-10 will beat that lead. Players may pass if they cannot, or choose not to, beat the current trick, and can engage in play on a future trick. Once a player has run out of cards for the hand, or all players have passed. The first player to run out of cards, or the last player to play a card, wins the hand and receives the benefits listed on the scoring table shown below. Again, when a player earns 10 VP and wins a hand, they win!
A few notes about Advancement Cards. The Ascended Form card given to all players at setup will allow the player to win the trick for that round once played. It is essentially a wild insta-win card. That is, unless another player plays an Ascended Form on top of it and wins with the most recent Ascended Form. The Kodora card, however, can be played to the player’s tableau instead of as a card in a trick. When played this way, the player “bets” two VP Tokens that they will win the hand. If they do, they gain an additional two VP Tokens, but lose their bet if they do not finish in 1st Place. All other Advancement Cards may be added to the Character Card sleeve as long as the associated gem icon at the bottom is not already present in the sleeve. As there are four gem slots on Character Cards, each Character may be upgraded four total times.
Components. This one comes with a number of components of different types. The tokens are all small, but not too small, the bag is cool, but obviously the main attractions are the clear plastic cards and sleeves common to the Card Crafting System that AEG produced. I think I first saw this idea of layering plastic cards on top of one another in the Gloom series, though it may have existed even before that. I adore this idea and really fell in love with it when I was big into Mystic Vale, also from John D. Clair and AEG. So components for me get a big ol’ seal of approval. I love ’em.
Similarly, I think the gameplay gets a big seal of approval from me. Like I said, I was big into Mystic Vale for a while, but I think that Cusom Heroes, to me, trumps it in many ways. Though both boxes mention games approximately taking around 45 minutes, I found Mystic Vale to be much longer, mostly due to having to explain and re-explain rules and oddities to players at the table. It feels like Custom Heroes has cut down the complexity of gameplay, especially for newer gamers. I can bring out Custom Heroes and have it taught and played in under an hour – a feat I still haven’t mastered with Mystic Vale.
I think that I also prefer the trick-taking style of Custom Heroes a bit more. My family really enjoys playing Euchre at family reunions and other events, and while Custom Heroes isn’t a Euchre clone at all, the feel is very similar. There is still a led card, and cards that are more valuable to be played atop them in order to win tricks. While there isn’t necessarily any suits in Custom Heroes, the ability to trump an entire hand with an Ascended Form Advancement or other Advancements adds a layer (see what I did there) of strategy and tactics that is just so satisfying. I am a big fan of games that allow players to upgrade their starting resources, or level up their characters, and this one fits right inside a little 60 minute pocket and is relatively easy to teach and play.
All in all, I am so glad I found this one at my FLGS (well, not super local), and there was a big sale going on. I picked it up solely for the Card Crafting System logo and it was a big hit for me. This will completely replace Mystic Vale for me in my collection, and I couldn’t be happier with that. If you are looking for something quick, easy, but full of choices and modifications, this is certainly the game for you. It’s the game for me, and that’s why Purple Phoenix Games gives Custom Heroes a mostly-upgraded 5 / 6. Could this reach into my Top 10 someday, or earn a Golden Feather Award? It is entirely possible. We shall see with more and more plays. I am excited to give it many more plays and find out! Are you in?
Purple Phoenix Games (2266 KP) rated Salty Dogs in Tabletop Games
Aug 27, 2019
Avast ye land lubbers!! Batten down the hatches! I am a scary pirate! Ok so maybe that last one isn’t necessarily historically accurate, but it’s fun. Sometimes you can enjoy something purely because it’s fun and you don’t have to analyze everything down to the mechanic or pixel. I am not even going to attempt that with this one, but I will explain the rules and our thoughts through several plays of Salty Dogs.
Salty Dogs is a small card game – it fits into a normal deck box – where each player is captaining their pirate ship and vying to become King of the Mountain! … or, rather, the High Seas! Players must protect their crew and be the last pirate ship standing to win the game!
DISCLAIMER: We were provided a review copy of this game for the purposes of this review. These are preview copy components, and I do not know if the final components will be similar or different, or if the Kickstarter campaign will alter or add anything through stretch goals. Similarly, you will see the play mat that was provided. You can download a play mat from the game’s website or order these from the publisher. -T
Setup is easy peasy scurvy squeezy. Remove from the deck all the pirate cards (they have a blue banner with a unique name at the bottom). Shuffle these, and deal each player five pirates. This will make up the crew for each player’s ship. No individual cards have certain abilities – they are all the same – so either place your crew randomly or choose who you would prefer to be Captain, First Mate, and then dump the others into the generic Pirate spaces. From there shuffle the remaining pirate cards into the deck, deal each player five cards and the battle is on!
On your turn, draw a card and play a card. Ok, on to final thoughts! Kidding, but game play is really that easy. There is no hand minimum or maximum limit, but it usually stays around five for the duration of the game. Cards drawn will be pirates, actions, attacks, illnesses, cures, or defense cards. You use pirate cards to refill any vacant crew slot on your ship. Vacancies happen when an opponent plays an attack or illness card on one of your crew. Your crew may only be attacked in a certain order with the first attackable card being furthest away from your Captain, and said Captain being targeted last. So your pirate is ill, eh? Simply play a cure card that affects the illness and heal your crew right up. Example – you have contracted Scurvy. Well, obviously the only cure for Scurvy is Piggy Peg Leg’s Gumbo. So throw the Gumbo card to cure your crew’s illness. That dastardly Captain Doodles McPoodle is firing their cannon attacks at you? Throw your Fog defense card to protect yourself – BOOM! There are several other illness and action combinations in the game I will allow you to discover for yourselves.
A note about attacking First Mates and Captains. First Mates are immune to Mutiny cards, and the Captain is immune to Mutiny AND Illness cards. This is a rule pair that can easily be forgotten, so try to keep that in mind the whole time as your crews are blown to smithereens.
Components. Per my disclaimer we were sent the deck of cards and four optional play mats. These components may change or improve over the course of the upcoming Kickstarter campaign, but I will comment on what we were sent. The cards are of good quality and the art upon them and throughout the game is quirky, but really really good. We really enjoyed seeing some tongue-in-cheek pop culture references in the pirate cards and in the accompanying art. The play mats feel like the top layer of a mouse pad – they are silky smooth and just as thin. I thought having thin play mats would be a negative, but then I packed up the game again and was thankful that they weren’t complete neoprene pads. So I’m in on those play mats. If you don’t splurge for the play mats, just line up your crew in front of you and it’s quite functional that way as well.
Salty Dogs. What did we think? Well, honestly, we really loved it. The art is whimsical and colorful. The cards are all super useful, and there’s something to be said about just obliterating your opponents’ ships and giving in to the piratey bloodlust. I was targeted early and was raring to come back as soon as I could in the next game. With so many pirate games, take that games, card games, and battle games on the market, I still think most gamers will enjoy Salty Dogs. It is not at all a brain burner, but it’s a great light (and light-hearted) filler game that will leave you with a smile on your face and a desire to play again and again. We at Purple Phoenix Games highly recommend this title, and cannot wait to see what the Kickstarter campaign has in store. May yer poop decks be sparkling and yer booty be plentiful!
Salty Dogs is a small card game – it fits into a normal deck box – where each player is captaining their pirate ship and vying to become King of the Mountain! … or, rather, the High Seas! Players must protect their crew and be the last pirate ship standing to win the game!
DISCLAIMER: We were provided a review copy of this game for the purposes of this review. These are preview copy components, and I do not know if the final components will be similar or different, or if the Kickstarter campaign will alter or add anything through stretch goals. Similarly, you will see the play mat that was provided. You can download a play mat from the game’s website or order these from the publisher. -T
Setup is easy peasy scurvy squeezy. Remove from the deck all the pirate cards (they have a blue banner with a unique name at the bottom). Shuffle these, and deal each player five pirates. This will make up the crew for each player’s ship. No individual cards have certain abilities – they are all the same – so either place your crew randomly or choose who you would prefer to be Captain, First Mate, and then dump the others into the generic Pirate spaces. From there shuffle the remaining pirate cards into the deck, deal each player five cards and the battle is on!
On your turn, draw a card and play a card. Ok, on to final thoughts! Kidding, but game play is really that easy. There is no hand minimum or maximum limit, but it usually stays around five for the duration of the game. Cards drawn will be pirates, actions, attacks, illnesses, cures, or defense cards. You use pirate cards to refill any vacant crew slot on your ship. Vacancies happen when an opponent plays an attack or illness card on one of your crew. Your crew may only be attacked in a certain order with the first attackable card being furthest away from your Captain, and said Captain being targeted last. So your pirate is ill, eh? Simply play a cure card that affects the illness and heal your crew right up. Example – you have contracted Scurvy. Well, obviously the only cure for Scurvy is Piggy Peg Leg’s Gumbo. So throw the Gumbo card to cure your crew’s illness. That dastardly Captain Doodles McPoodle is firing their cannon attacks at you? Throw your Fog defense card to protect yourself – BOOM! There are several other illness and action combinations in the game I will allow you to discover for yourselves.
A note about attacking First Mates and Captains. First Mates are immune to Mutiny cards, and the Captain is immune to Mutiny AND Illness cards. This is a rule pair that can easily be forgotten, so try to keep that in mind the whole time as your crews are blown to smithereens.
Components. Per my disclaimer we were sent the deck of cards and four optional play mats. These components may change or improve over the course of the upcoming Kickstarter campaign, but I will comment on what we were sent. The cards are of good quality and the art upon them and throughout the game is quirky, but really really good. We really enjoyed seeing some tongue-in-cheek pop culture references in the pirate cards and in the accompanying art. The play mats feel like the top layer of a mouse pad – they are silky smooth and just as thin. I thought having thin play mats would be a negative, but then I packed up the game again and was thankful that they weren’t complete neoprene pads. So I’m in on those play mats. If you don’t splurge for the play mats, just line up your crew in front of you and it’s quite functional that way as well.
Salty Dogs. What did we think? Well, honestly, we really loved it. The art is whimsical and colorful. The cards are all super useful, and there’s something to be said about just obliterating your opponents’ ships and giving in to the piratey bloodlust. I was targeted early and was raring to come back as soon as I could in the next game. With so many pirate games, take that games, card games, and battle games on the market, I still think most gamers will enjoy Salty Dogs. It is not at all a brain burner, but it’s a great light (and light-hearted) filler game that will leave you with a smile on your face and a desire to play again and again. We at Purple Phoenix Games highly recommend this title, and cannot wait to see what the Kickstarter campaign has in store. May yer poop decks be sparkling and yer booty be plentiful!
Purple Phoenix Games (2266 KP) rated Yes! Broccoli! in Tabletop Games
Mar 25, 2020
I’m sure you saw the title of this review and thought I had lost my mind. Well, I thought I had lost my mind when I saw the description of this one and immediately was excited to play it. Not that broccoli is my favorite food, but I do love it. My son, however, loves broccoli. Wait, he LOVES broccoli. Hopefully now you can understand why I would be excited to play a card game about health food geared toward children to teach them about good vs bad food items. I love my kids, and I love games. When I can combine those, I am a happy guy.
Yes! Broccoli! is a card game for 2-5 players that incorporates blind bidding, special player powers (in advanced games), and drafting elements. The hidden benefit from this game is that healthy food cards are worth more points while the junk food cards are worth negative points (boo and hiss).
DISCLAIMER: We were provided a copy of this game for the purposes of this review. This is a retail copy of the game, so what you see in these photos is exactly what would be received in your box. I do not intend to cover every single rule included in the rulebook, but will describe the overall game flow and major rule set so that our readers may get a sense of how the game plays. For more in depth rules, you may purchase a copy online from the publisher directly, or from your FLGS if stocked. -T
To setup a basic game, each player will take a personal deck of cards numbered 1-8 of the same color border (I choose orange or purple). These are the cards that will be used during the game. Shuffle the large stack of food cards as a draw deck. Draw a number of cards equal to the number of players, determine the starting player and the game is ready to be consumed!
The players will all choose one of their bid cards from their hand and place them face-down in front of them. Once all have chosen, all bid cards will be revealed simultaneously. The highest-bid card’s player will then choose one of the drawn food cards to take into their score pile. That winning player now acts as the dealer and will draw and reveal the next set of cards upon which the players will bid. As the players play all their numbered cards, they may win food cards worth many points, or they may be saddled with negative values as well. These are the junk food cards that nobody wants. Except my son, who wanted all the Candy T-Rex cards, even knowing that it will affect his score. Some people play to win. Others play to have a good time. I admire that about him. Play continues in this fashion until all bid cards have been played. Count up the points won/gathered and determine a winner! This is the basic game to be played with new players or young children.
To play a more advanced game, setup will be the same, except each player will also be dealt two special ability cards to be used during the game. These cards are very powerful, and can only be used once during the game. As this adds a new and thinky layer to the basic game, it is only recommended for older children or adult play. Examples of these special abilities are having the lowest-bid card win instead of highest card, or doubling a bid amount, or adding/subtracting three to/from a current bid.
Components. This game is a big stack of cards in a small (but appropriately-sized) box. The cards are great, and while I would prefer plastic cards for my young kids, children who can respect game components will be just fine. The art on these cards is super cute and I found myself just smiling while I was playing because not only is this game educational for youngsters, but it’s fun to look at while playing too. I made a parenthetical comment about the box being appropriately-sized, and I mean it. I appreciate when a game doesn’t try to be bigger on the shelf for that extra “presence” at the game store. When I open a box and more than 50% is air, it is very irksome to me. How wasteful. Well, not here. We have nothing bad to say about these components at all.
So while most kids may not appreciate the backstabbiness of the special abilities, adults certainly will. That said, when playing with the intended audience of children, we found that Yes! Broccoli! was a huge hit! We are still working on the younger kids and breaking them of the, “yes, the cake princess is very pretty, but you really don’t want to take her into your score pile.” Winning and losing really doesn’t matter much in the Lopez household, but gaming experiences do, and though my son doesn’t win this one ever, he loves it, and I love playing it with him. So I consider this a win, and though our official Purple Phoenix Games rating has a caloric value of 8 / 12, I do believe you will enjoy this little card game – ESPECIALLY if there are little ones in your life. Purchase it directly from the publisher at Gangway Games. You can use it as a precursor to Munchkin and Cutthroat Cavern, or as a stepstone to bidding games like Biblios and No Thanks!
Yes! Broccoli! is a card game for 2-5 players that incorporates blind bidding, special player powers (in advanced games), and drafting elements. The hidden benefit from this game is that healthy food cards are worth more points while the junk food cards are worth negative points (boo and hiss).
DISCLAIMER: We were provided a copy of this game for the purposes of this review. This is a retail copy of the game, so what you see in these photos is exactly what would be received in your box. I do not intend to cover every single rule included in the rulebook, but will describe the overall game flow and major rule set so that our readers may get a sense of how the game plays. For more in depth rules, you may purchase a copy online from the publisher directly, or from your FLGS if stocked. -T
To setup a basic game, each player will take a personal deck of cards numbered 1-8 of the same color border (I choose orange or purple). These are the cards that will be used during the game. Shuffle the large stack of food cards as a draw deck. Draw a number of cards equal to the number of players, determine the starting player and the game is ready to be consumed!
The players will all choose one of their bid cards from their hand and place them face-down in front of them. Once all have chosen, all bid cards will be revealed simultaneously. The highest-bid card’s player will then choose one of the drawn food cards to take into their score pile. That winning player now acts as the dealer and will draw and reveal the next set of cards upon which the players will bid. As the players play all their numbered cards, they may win food cards worth many points, or they may be saddled with negative values as well. These are the junk food cards that nobody wants. Except my son, who wanted all the Candy T-Rex cards, even knowing that it will affect his score. Some people play to win. Others play to have a good time. I admire that about him. Play continues in this fashion until all bid cards have been played. Count up the points won/gathered and determine a winner! This is the basic game to be played with new players or young children.
To play a more advanced game, setup will be the same, except each player will also be dealt two special ability cards to be used during the game. These cards are very powerful, and can only be used once during the game. As this adds a new and thinky layer to the basic game, it is only recommended for older children or adult play. Examples of these special abilities are having the lowest-bid card win instead of highest card, or doubling a bid amount, or adding/subtracting three to/from a current bid.
Components. This game is a big stack of cards in a small (but appropriately-sized) box. The cards are great, and while I would prefer plastic cards for my young kids, children who can respect game components will be just fine. The art on these cards is super cute and I found myself just smiling while I was playing because not only is this game educational for youngsters, but it’s fun to look at while playing too. I made a parenthetical comment about the box being appropriately-sized, and I mean it. I appreciate when a game doesn’t try to be bigger on the shelf for that extra “presence” at the game store. When I open a box and more than 50% is air, it is very irksome to me. How wasteful. Well, not here. We have nothing bad to say about these components at all.
So while most kids may not appreciate the backstabbiness of the special abilities, adults certainly will. That said, when playing with the intended audience of children, we found that Yes! Broccoli! was a huge hit! We are still working on the younger kids and breaking them of the, “yes, the cake princess is very pretty, but you really don’t want to take her into your score pile.” Winning and losing really doesn’t matter much in the Lopez household, but gaming experiences do, and though my son doesn’t win this one ever, he loves it, and I love playing it with him. So I consider this a win, and though our official Purple Phoenix Games rating has a caloric value of 8 / 12, I do believe you will enjoy this little card game – ESPECIALLY if there are little ones in your life. Purchase it directly from the publisher at Gangway Games. You can use it as a precursor to Munchkin and Cutthroat Cavern, or as a stepstone to bidding games like Biblios and No Thanks!
Legendary: A Marvel Deck Building Game
8.9
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Neuroshima Hex
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7.5
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Red Otter (340 KP) rated Mystic Vale: Conclave in Tabletop Games
May 30, 2019
Mystic Vale: Conclave is a good expansion if you have multiple other expansions for Mystic Vale already. It is at first a giant box/organizer that lets you organise multiple expansions. It also comes with additional decks for more people (or if you like the colors purple and white instead). It adds 8 new cards called totems that are in your play area from the start of the game. I did not like these too much as they sped up the game too much in my opinion and seemed unbalanced. The best part of this expansion in my opinion were the Conclaves. These are cards with advancements and vales from the expansions printed on them. By picking 6 of them randomly, you can allow for a more focused game and actually see multiples of some card types. Especially at smaller player counts when your level 1 advancement deck is more limited.
Tournament Fishing: The Deckbuilding Game
Tabletop Game
Tournament Fishing is a card game that involves memory, luck, and strategy. Each participating...
Matthew Krueger (10051 KP) rated Horrified: Universal Monsters Strategy Board Game in Tabletop Games
Jul 31, 2020 (Updated Aug 1, 2020)
The Universal Monsters (3 more)
The Strategy
Replay Value
Think Ten Steps Ahead
The Excellent Universal Monsters Board Game
When I heard about Horrorified, i wanted to buy it right away. A board game that has the universal monsters and it revolves around them, i really wanted to buy it. Cause i love the universal monsters. My favorite being The Invisible Man and Dracula. So lets talk more about it.
The Gameplay:
Horrified is a cooperative game in which all the players win or lose together. The players win if they defeat all of the Monsters they are playing against. In order to defeat a Monster, you must first complete a task.
Each Monster's task and subsequent defeat is unique:
Creature from the Black Lagoon: Find the Creature's hidden lair, then drive the Creature away.
Dracula: Smash Dracula's four coffins, then overcome Dracula.
Frankenstein and the Bride: Teach Frankenstein and the Bride what it means to be human so they can live peacefully.
The Invisible Man: Supply evidence to the police of the Invisible Man's existence, then trap him.
The Mummy: Break the Mummy's curse, then return him to his tomb.
The Wolf Man: Discover the cure for lycanthropy, then administer it to the Wolf Man.
The players lose immediately if one of the following occurs:
Terror: Each time a Hero or Villager is defeated, the Terror Level will increase. If the Terror Level reaches its maximum, indicated by the skull, the Monsters have overrun the village and the players lose.
Out Of Time: Each turn, you will draw a card from the Monster deck. If you need to draw a Monster card but the deck is empty, you have taken too long to defeat the Monsters and the players lose.
Each turn has two phases, performed in this order:
Hero Phase: Take as many actions as indicated on your Badge. In addition, any player may play any number of Perk cards.
Monster Phase: Draw one Monster card from the top of the Monster deck and resolve all three parts of the card. After completing both phases, play proceeds clockwise, starting with the next player's Hero Phase.
Hero Phase: Actions: Take up to the number of actions indicated on your Badge. You may choose to take fewer. Actions may be taken multiple times and in any order. The possible actions are:
Move: Move your Hero along a lit path to an adjacent space. You cannot move to water spaces and can only cross the river using one of the two bridge spaces. In addition, you may take any number of Villagers in your Hero's space with you when you move.
Guide: Move one Villager from your Hero's space to an adjacent space, or move one Villager from an adjacent space to your Hero's space. Villagers also cannot move to water spaces, and Monsters do not affect their movement.
Special Action: Some Heroes have a special action, as indicated on their Badge. Just like other actions, special actions count as one of the total number of actions for your turn and can be taken multiple times.
Pick Up: Take any number of Items from your Hero's space. Keep all your Items in front of you, next to your Badge.
Share: All Heroes in the same space as your Hero may freely give or take any number of Items from each other.
Advance: At a specific location, use one of your Items to advance a Monster's task.
Defeat: In a Monster's space, use your Items to defeat that Monster.
Monster Phase:
Draw a card from the top of the Monster deck and resolve the three parts of the card, from top to bottom. After resolving the entire Monster card, put it in a discard pile face up.
1. Items: Draw the number of Items listed at the top of the card, if any, from the Item bag. Place each Item at the location indicated on the Item.
If you need to draw an Item when the Item bag is empty, place all the Items from the discard pile into the bag, mix them up, and continue drawing.
2. Event: Each Event either involves one of the Monsters or the Villagers.
The card's color, as well as the symbol above the Event's name, indicates who the Event is about. Gray cards are about the Villagers. Colored cards are about a specific Monster.
If the Event Monster is not in your game, completely ignore the Event and continue with the Monster Strike. Otherwise, read the Event out loud and do what it says.
3. Monster Strike: Certain Monsters move and attack, as indicated by the symbols at the bottom of the card. In order from left to right, move and attack with the first Monster before proceeding to the next Monster.
If an indicated Monster is not in your game, ignore that symbol. If the Frenzy symbol is shown, the Monster with the Frenzy Marker moves and attacks. This could result in the same Monster moving and attacking twice in one turn.
Move the Monster the number of spaces indicated on the card towards the closest person (Hero or Villager). As soon as the Monster is in a space with a person, they stop moving. If the Monster started in a space with a person, they don't move at all.
Attack one person in the Monster's space by rolling the number of attack dice indicated. If there are no people in the Monster's space, the Monster does not attack-do not roll dice. If there are multiple people in that space, the Monster will attack a Hero rather than a Villager.
If there are still multiple people the Monster could attack, the current player chooses one to attack before rolling.
Perk Cards: Each player starts the game with a Perk card, and more Perk cards can be earned by getting Villagers to their safe locations. Keep all your Perk cards face up in front of you. It's a good idea to discuss your Perk cards, and when to play them, with the other players.
Perks may be played on any player's turn, but only during the Hero Phase. When you play a Perk card, do what the card says, and then put it in a discard pile face up. Playing a Perk card does not take an action.
Items: Items are important for advancing tasks and defeating Monsters, as well as defending yourself from the Monsters' attacks. Each Item has a color, indicating its type, and a strength, which is the number at the top. Each Item also has a location, which indicates where the Item is placed when it is drawn from the Item bag.
Hit by a Monster:
Heroes: To ignore being hit by a Monster's attack, a Hero may discard one Item for each Hit symbol rolled. If the Hero does not have enough Items, or does not wish to discard any Items, they are defeated. One hit defeats a Hero.
When a Hero is defeated, increase the Terror Level by moving the Terror Marker one space and remove that Hero from the board.
At the start of that player's next turn, they place their Hero at the Hospital and take their turn as normal, including their full number of actions. A defeated Hero does not lose any Items or Perk cards.
Villagers: A Villager does not have any Items and is therefore defeated immediately when hit. When a Villager is defeated, increase the Terror Level by moving the Terror Marker one space and remove that Villager from the board.
End of the Game: The game can end in one of three ways:
Heroes Triumph: If you defeat all the Monsters, the game immediately ends and the players have won! You've saved the village from a horrific fate, and perhaps even the Monsters themselves.
Terror!: If the Terror Level reaches its maximum, indicated by the skull, the game immediately ends and the players have lost. Everyone, including the Heroes, are too horrified to continue. You abandon the village to the Monsters.
Out Of Time: If you need to draw a card when the Monster deck is empty, the game immediately ends and the players have lost. You've taken too long to save the village. The Villagers have fled and you aren't able to continue.
Solo Play: The Villagers are more fearful if there is only one Hero trying to save the village. Begin the game with the Terror Marker on the "3" of the Terror Level Track.
All the rules remain the same. However, do not play as the Courier-that Hero's Special Action cannot be taken in a solo game. Also the Perk cards "Special Delivery" and "Conduct An Investigation" cannot be used.
Either remove these cards before playing, or when drawn, immediately discard and draw a new Perk card to replace it.
Its a fantasic excellent strategy game based around the universal monsters. I love it so much its such a fun game. If you want to learn more go to BoardGameGeek, Dice Tower Review or One Stop Co-Op Shop.
The Gameplay:
Horrified is a cooperative game in which all the players win or lose together. The players win if they defeat all of the Monsters they are playing against. In order to defeat a Monster, you must first complete a task.
Each Monster's task and subsequent defeat is unique:
Creature from the Black Lagoon: Find the Creature's hidden lair, then drive the Creature away.
Dracula: Smash Dracula's four coffins, then overcome Dracula.
Frankenstein and the Bride: Teach Frankenstein and the Bride what it means to be human so they can live peacefully.
The Invisible Man: Supply evidence to the police of the Invisible Man's existence, then trap him.
The Mummy: Break the Mummy's curse, then return him to his tomb.
The Wolf Man: Discover the cure for lycanthropy, then administer it to the Wolf Man.
The players lose immediately if one of the following occurs:
Terror: Each time a Hero or Villager is defeated, the Terror Level will increase. If the Terror Level reaches its maximum, indicated by the skull, the Monsters have overrun the village and the players lose.
Out Of Time: Each turn, you will draw a card from the Monster deck. If you need to draw a Monster card but the deck is empty, you have taken too long to defeat the Monsters and the players lose.
Each turn has two phases, performed in this order:
Hero Phase: Take as many actions as indicated on your Badge. In addition, any player may play any number of Perk cards.
Monster Phase: Draw one Monster card from the top of the Monster deck and resolve all three parts of the card. After completing both phases, play proceeds clockwise, starting with the next player's Hero Phase.
Hero Phase: Actions: Take up to the number of actions indicated on your Badge. You may choose to take fewer. Actions may be taken multiple times and in any order. The possible actions are:
Move: Move your Hero along a lit path to an adjacent space. You cannot move to water spaces and can only cross the river using one of the two bridge spaces. In addition, you may take any number of Villagers in your Hero's space with you when you move.
Guide: Move one Villager from your Hero's space to an adjacent space, or move one Villager from an adjacent space to your Hero's space. Villagers also cannot move to water spaces, and Monsters do not affect their movement.
Special Action: Some Heroes have a special action, as indicated on their Badge. Just like other actions, special actions count as one of the total number of actions for your turn and can be taken multiple times.
Pick Up: Take any number of Items from your Hero's space. Keep all your Items in front of you, next to your Badge.
Share: All Heroes in the same space as your Hero may freely give or take any number of Items from each other.
Advance: At a specific location, use one of your Items to advance a Monster's task.
Defeat: In a Monster's space, use your Items to defeat that Monster.
Monster Phase:
Draw a card from the top of the Monster deck and resolve the three parts of the card, from top to bottom. After resolving the entire Monster card, put it in a discard pile face up.
1. Items: Draw the number of Items listed at the top of the card, if any, from the Item bag. Place each Item at the location indicated on the Item.
If you need to draw an Item when the Item bag is empty, place all the Items from the discard pile into the bag, mix them up, and continue drawing.
2. Event: Each Event either involves one of the Monsters or the Villagers.
The card's color, as well as the symbol above the Event's name, indicates who the Event is about. Gray cards are about the Villagers. Colored cards are about a specific Monster.
If the Event Monster is not in your game, completely ignore the Event and continue with the Monster Strike. Otherwise, read the Event out loud and do what it says.
3. Monster Strike: Certain Monsters move and attack, as indicated by the symbols at the bottom of the card. In order from left to right, move and attack with the first Monster before proceeding to the next Monster.
If an indicated Monster is not in your game, ignore that symbol. If the Frenzy symbol is shown, the Monster with the Frenzy Marker moves and attacks. This could result in the same Monster moving and attacking twice in one turn.
Move the Monster the number of spaces indicated on the card towards the closest person (Hero or Villager). As soon as the Monster is in a space with a person, they stop moving. If the Monster started in a space with a person, they don't move at all.
Attack one person in the Monster's space by rolling the number of attack dice indicated. If there are no people in the Monster's space, the Monster does not attack-do not roll dice. If there are multiple people in that space, the Monster will attack a Hero rather than a Villager.
If there are still multiple people the Monster could attack, the current player chooses one to attack before rolling.
Perk Cards: Each player starts the game with a Perk card, and more Perk cards can be earned by getting Villagers to their safe locations. Keep all your Perk cards face up in front of you. It's a good idea to discuss your Perk cards, and when to play them, with the other players.
Perks may be played on any player's turn, but only during the Hero Phase. When you play a Perk card, do what the card says, and then put it in a discard pile face up. Playing a Perk card does not take an action.
Items: Items are important for advancing tasks and defeating Monsters, as well as defending yourself from the Monsters' attacks. Each Item has a color, indicating its type, and a strength, which is the number at the top. Each Item also has a location, which indicates where the Item is placed when it is drawn from the Item bag.
Hit by a Monster:
Heroes: To ignore being hit by a Monster's attack, a Hero may discard one Item for each Hit symbol rolled. If the Hero does not have enough Items, or does not wish to discard any Items, they are defeated. One hit defeats a Hero.
When a Hero is defeated, increase the Terror Level by moving the Terror Marker one space and remove that Hero from the board.
At the start of that player's next turn, they place their Hero at the Hospital and take their turn as normal, including their full number of actions. A defeated Hero does not lose any Items or Perk cards.
Villagers: A Villager does not have any Items and is therefore defeated immediately when hit. When a Villager is defeated, increase the Terror Level by moving the Terror Marker one space and remove that Villager from the board.
End of the Game: The game can end in one of three ways:
Heroes Triumph: If you defeat all the Monsters, the game immediately ends and the players have won! You've saved the village from a horrific fate, and perhaps even the Monsters themselves.
Terror!: If the Terror Level reaches its maximum, indicated by the skull, the game immediately ends and the players have lost. Everyone, including the Heroes, are too horrified to continue. You abandon the village to the Monsters.
Out Of Time: If you need to draw a card when the Monster deck is empty, the game immediately ends and the players have lost. You've taken too long to save the village. The Villagers have fled and you aren't able to continue.
Solo Play: The Villagers are more fearful if there is only one Hero trying to save the village. Begin the game with the Terror Marker on the "3" of the Terror Level Track.
All the rules remain the same. However, do not play as the Courier-that Hero's Special Action cannot be taken in a solo game. Also the Perk cards "Special Delivery" and "Conduct An Investigation" cannot be used.
Either remove these cards before playing, or when drawn, immediately discard and draw a new Perk card to replace it.
Its a fantasic excellent strategy game based around the universal monsters. I love it so much its such a fun game. If you want to learn more go to BoardGameGeek, Dice Tower Review or One Stop Co-Op Shop.
Purple Phoenix Games (2266 KP) rated Dungeon Drop in Tabletop Games
Feb 15, 2022
Replayability is always something I consider when deciding whether or not to purchase a game. And as much as I like Unlock! puzzles or Exit games, the fact that they are a one-and-done play is a bummer. So when I was perusing the game store and saw a game that boasted essentially infinite possibilities, I was intrigued. The box was small, the artwork was cute, and the gameplay sounded unique, so I bought it. Is Dungeon Drop really infinitely replayable? Keep reading to decide for yourself.
Dungeon Drop is a game of set collection, area enclosure, and dexterity (to a degree) in which players take on the roles of dungeon-delving adventurers trying to gather treasure, defeat monsters, and complete quests. To setup for a game, each player is randomly dealt a Race card and a Class card – each with a special ability for use during the game. Turn Order tokens are distributed based on the Initiative on your Race card, starting with the lowest number. All players are dealt a Quest card that will dictate some end-game scoring for the player, and Quests are kept secret from opponents. Now it’s time to setup the dungeon. Separate all the Small cubes from the Larger ones – purely based on size, the color of the cube does not matter. All the Larger cubes are placed into the game box, for use later. The starting player will gather all of the Small cubes (plus the giant Dragon cube) and literally drop them onto the center of the table. The rulebook suggests dropping the cubes from a height of 6-12 inches, to ensure the cubes spread evenly across the table. And bam – there’s your dungeon.
The game is played over 3 rounds during which each player will take a turn. Turns are broken down into 3 steps: Explore, Act, and Loot. To Explore, the active player will take a set number of the Larger cubes from the game box (at random, without looking), and will add them to the dungeon by dropping them onto the table. The next step is to Act. Each Race and Class card has a special ability, and during this step you will choose to activate one of those abilities to use this turn. The final step is Loot, and this is where the crux of the gameplay is. The cubes of the dungeon consist of Treasure cubes, Monster cubes, and Pillar cubes. Pillar cubes are what form the ‘rooms’ of the dungeon. When it is your time to Loot, you will form a room by selecting 3 Pillar cubes. These cubes will essentially form a triangle, and the inside area of that triangle represents the room in which you are in. Once you form a room, you will collect all cubes from within that space – whether they be Treasure or Monster cubes. Treasure cubes go into your Stash and are saved for end-game scoring, and Monster cubes will deal Damage to your Hero. All Heroes have a finite amount of Health, and you can never collect a Monster cube that would cause you to lose your last Health point.
When you are done Looting, flip over your Turn Order token to indicate that your turn is done. When all players have completed their turns in the round, Turn Order tokens are redistributed based on Weight – the number of Treasure cubes each player possesses. The player with the least Treasure is considered the ‘lightest’ and receives the 1st Turn Order token for the new round, and the rest are distributed likewise. A new round will then begin, and the game continues until 3 complete rounds have been played. At that point, players will add up their points earned from Treasure cubes and their secret Quests. The player with the highest score is declared the winner!
In theory, this game is really awesome. Players can create unique rooms by selecting specific Pillars, and collect different combinations of cubes each turn. AND since each player drops more cubes into play each turn, the dungeon is constantly changing, with new cubes, and because the cubes may knock others around. In actual practice, though, this game is kind of frustrating to me. For starters, when dropping all the Small cubes to form the initial dungeon, be prepared for them to go everywhere. The rules say to drop from 6-12 inches, but that means that you’re going to get quite a huge play area going on. And for me, that means cubes flying off the table, knocking into player components, and just wreaking havoc in general. Phase Shift Games does sell a set of Dungeon Walls for use during this game – to help define the play area and keep the cubes from going rogue – but I just wonder why they aren’t included in every copy of the base game.
Another problem I have had in my plays of Dungeon Drop is that the layout of the dungeon is usually very limiting. For some reason, all my Pillar cubes will end up clumped together and severely affects what you can do on your turn. Yes, more cubes are being added by each player every turn, but the Pillars are what you use to create rooms – if they’re all too close together, you get small rooms, or basically all Treasure lays outside of any possible room configurations. The solution that I’ve come up with for this issue is to drop all Treasure and Monster cubes as described in the rules, but then ‘sprinkle’ the Pillar cubes across the play area. It just helps even things out and create a bigger playing field.
When it comes to components, I have to say that Dungeon Drop is pretty nice. The cards are oversized, sturdy, and easy to read. The artwork itself is cute and I just enjoy looking at it! The cubes are nice and chunky, and easily identifiable as to what type of cube they are. Again, I wish the Dungeon Walls were included in the base game, instead of being an up-sell, but overall the production quality of the game itself is pretty decent.
You can probably tell by my comments that I’m not really a huge fan of this game. The concept is cool, but in all actuality, it’s what makes this game frustrating for me. This game isn’t supposed to be a super serious game, and is supposed to be more lighthearted and silly. I think it hits the mark in that regard, but overall as a complete game, it falls a little flat for me. I might pull this one out if I need a filler/small party-type game during a game night, but it’s one that probably won’t be making it to my table too often. I wanted to like this game so badly, but it just doesn’t quite reach that level for me. Purple Phoenix Games gives this one a stagnant 3 / 6.
Dungeon Drop is a game of set collection, area enclosure, and dexterity (to a degree) in which players take on the roles of dungeon-delving adventurers trying to gather treasure, defeat monsters, and complete quests. To setup for a game, each player is randomly dealt a Race card and a Class card – each with a special ability for use during the game. Turn Order tokens are distributed based on the Initiative on your Race card, starting with the lowest number. All players are dealt a Quest card that will dictate some end-game scoring for the player, and Quests are kept secret from opponents. Now it’s time to setup the dungeon. Separate all the Small cubes from the Larger ones – purely based on size, the color of the cube does not matter. All the Larger cubes are placed into the game box, for use later. The starting player will gather all of the Small cubes (plus the giant Dragon cube) and literally drop them onto the center of the table. The rulebook suggests dropping the cubes from a height of 6-12 inches, to ensure the cubes spread evenly across the table. And bam – there’s your dungeon.
The game is played over 3 rounds during which each player will take a turn. Turns are broken down into 3 steps: Explore, Act, and Loot. To Explore, the active player will take a set number of the Larger cubes from the game box (at random, without looking), and will add them to the dungeon by dropping them onto the table. The next step is to Act. Each Race and Class card has a special ability, and during this step you will choose to activate one of those abilities to use this turn. The final step is Loot, and this is where the crux of the gameplay is. The cubes of the dungeon consist of Treasure cubes, Monster cubes, and Pillar cubes. Pillar cubes are what form the ‘rooms’ of the dungeon. When it is your time to Loot, you will form a room by selecting 3 Pillar cubes. These cubes will essentially form a triangle, and the inside area of that triangle represents the room in which you are in. Once you form a room, you will collect all cubes from within that space – whether they be Treasure or Monster cubes. Treasure cubes go into your Stash and are saved for end-game scoring, and Monster cubes will deal Damage to your Hero. All Heroes have a finite amount of Health, and you can never collect a Monster cube that would cause you to lose your last Health point.
When you are done Looting, flip over your Turn Order token to indicate that your turn is done. When all players have completed their turns in the round, Turn Order tokens are redistributed based on Weight – the number of Treasure cubes each player possesses. The player with the least Treasure is considered the ‘lightest’ and receives the 1st Turn Order token for the new round, and the rest are distributed likewise. A new round will then begin, and the game continues until 3 complete rounds have been played. At that point, players will add up their points earned from Treasure cubes and their secret Quests. The player with the highest score is declared the winner!
In theory, this game is really awesome. Players can create unique rooms by selecting specific Pillars, and collect different combinations of cubes each turn. AND since each player drops more cubes into play each turn, the dungeon is constantly changing, with new cubes, and because the cubes may knock others around. In actual practice, though, this game is kind of frustrating to me. For starters, when dropping all the Small cubes to form the initial dungeon, be prepared for them to go everywhere. The rules say to drop from 6-12 inches, but that means that you’re going to get quite a huge play area going on. And for me, that means cubes flying off the table, knocking into player components, and just wreaking havoc in general. Phase Shift Games does sell a set of Dungeon Walls for use during this game – to help define the play area and keep the cubes from going rogue – but I just wonder why they aren’t included in every copy of the base game.
Another problem I have had in my plays of Dungeon Drop is that the layout of the dungeon is usually very limiting. For some reason, all my Pillar cubes will end up clumped together and severely affects what you can do on your turn. Yes, more cubes are being added by each player every turn, but the Pillars are what you use to create rooms – if they’re all too close together, you get small rooms, or basically all Treasure lays outside of any possible room configurations. The solution that I’ve come up with for this issue is to drop all Treasure and Monster cubes as described in the rules, but then ‘sprinkle’ the Pillar cubes across the play area. It just helps even things out and create a bigger playing field.
When it comes to components, I have to say that Dungeon Drop is pretty nice. The cards are oversized, sturdy, and easy to read. The artwork itself is cute and I just enjoy looking at it! The cubes are nice and chunky, and easily identifiable as to what type of cube they are. Again, I wish the Dungeon Walls were included in the base game, instead of being an up-sell, but overall the production quality of the game itself is pretty decent.
You can probably tell by my comments that I’m not really a huge fan of this game. The concept is cool, but in all actuality, it’s what makes this game frustrating for me. This game isn’t supposed to be a super serious game, and is supposed to be more lighthearted and silly. I think it hits the mark in that regard, but overall as a complete game, it falls a little flat for me. I might pull this one out if I need a filler/small party-type game during a game night, but it’s one that probably won’t be making it to my table too often. I wanted to like this game so badly, but it just doesn’t quite reach that level for me. Purple Phoenix Games gives this one a stagnant 3 / 6.
Purple Phoenix Games (2266 KP) rated Sorrim in Tabletop Games
Sep 2, 2020
Head to head competitive games are great, especially during the current lockdown situation. My wife and I could play 1v1 games all the time and be quite happy. That’s why we really enjoy abstract games so much. However, head to head fighting card games are something that my wife and I can kinda get heated over. How did Sorrim do for us? Keep reading.
Sorrim is a competitive 1v1 (or 2v2 or 3v3) card game for two players. A player wins once all of their opponent’s fighters have been knocked out. Fighters are all of differing magic (element) types and therefore can only be equipped with sigils (spells and attacks) of matching type. Whittling the opposing fighters’ health to zero will award triumphant players victory!
DISCLAIMER: We were provided a copy of this game for the purposes of this review. These are retail copy components, and all copies will have components matching these shown. Also, it is not my intention to detail every rule in the game, but to give our readers an idea of how the game plays. You are invited to order from The Game Crafter directly, your FLGS, or purchase through any retailers stocking it after it is released. -T
To setup the game, separate and shuffle the fighter deck and sigil deck. Deal each player a set of colored chips to keep track of values for each fighter. Fighter cards will be flipped and revealed at the beginning of the conflict. Roll the die to determine starting player and the game can begin! Note: this preview will be using the introductory 1v1 setup, though games can also be played on 2v2 and 3v3 modes with slightly different rules.
Each fighter will have their own stats to track as shown on their cards: Might, Altruism, Trickery, Health. Fighters will also possess special abilities printed on their cards to be used during the game.
Sigil cards will show either the word “Passive,” which will be active throughout the game or triggered by a special event, or they will show a group of numbers to indicate the required rolls needed to launch a successful attack.
On a player’s turn they will consult the fighter’s passive abilities to see if they will trigger. Next, the player will roll the die and compare with their cards to cast a sigil (spell). If the rolled result matches a sigil it may be cast. Opponents will check any passive abilities and adjust Health by amount of the fighter’s Might. Play continues in this fashion until one player’s fighters are all reduced to zero Health. That player loses and the winner must then mock the loser until the next game played.
Components. This game consists of some cards, a die, and some translucent chips. Each copy will be provided a link to the designer’s document to print off the rulebook and the stat sheets to track fighter stats as they change throughout the game. The cards are acceptable quality, the die is just an entry-level normal d6 (we were sent green with white ink), and the chips are TiddlyWink style. Everything is… fine. The art leaves some to be desired, especially in this era of gaming where art can elevate a good game to great, and a great game to amazing. This art does not help Sorrim. It’s not terrible, but it’s not wonderful either. Not my style.
All in all, the game is actually pretty decent. It is very quick-playing, especially the 1v1 mode, and after playing one game you kinda want to try some of the other fighter and sigil combinations. Any time a game makes you want to play more, that’s a great thing.
With Sorrim, my final thoughts are that it is a good game. I wouldn’t call it great, but there are several interesting mechanics and the variability/replayability built in is quite good. There are lots of two player battle card games, and Sorrim brings something a little different. The theme is enjoyable, and the gameplay is fast. There isn’t a ton of strategy involved as turns are dependent on rolling a number that matches your sigil cards, but it does deliver an easy-feeling, low-stress battle game for two. For some reason you just don’t feel annoyed when you lose, as can be the case with other PvP games. If you are looking for something in your collection that gives you this quick gameplay and is relatively rules-light, head over to The Game Crafter and give Sorrim a try.
Sorrim is a competitive 1v1 (or 2v2 or 3v3) card game for two players. A player wins once all of their opponent’s fighters have been knocked out. Fighters are all of differing magic (element) types and therefore can only be equipped with sigils (spells and attacks) of matching type. Whittling the opposing fighters’ health to zero will award triumphant players victory!
DISCLAIMER: We were provided a copy of this game for the purposes of this review. These are retail copy components, and all copies will have components matching these shown. Also, it is not my intention to detail every rule in the game, but to give our readers an idea of how the game plays. You are invited to order from The Game Crafter directly, your FLGS, or purchase through any retailers stocking it after it is released. -T
To setup the game, separate and shuffle the fighter deck and sigil deck. Deal each player a set of colored chips to keep track of values for each fighter. Fighter cards will be flipped and revealed at the beginning of the conflict. Roll the die to determine starting player and the game can begin! Note: this preview will be using the introductory 1v1 setup, though games can also be played on 2v2 and 3v3 modes with slightly different rules.
Each fighter will have their own stats to track as shown on their cards: Might, Altruism, Trickery, Health. Fighters will also possess special abilities printed on their cards to be used during the game.
Sigil cards will show either the word “Passive,” which will be active throughout the game or triggered by a special event, or they will show a group of numbers to indicate the required rolls needed to launch a successful attack.
On a player’s turn they will consult the fighter’s passive abilities to see if they will trigger. Next, the player will roll the die and compare with their cards to cast a sigil (spell). If the rolled result matches a sigil it may be cast. Opponents will check any passive abilities and adjust Health by amount of the fighter’s Might. Play continues in this fashion until one player’s fighters are all reduced to zero Health. That player loses and the winner must then mock the loser until the next game played.
Components. This game consists of some cards, a die, and some translucent chips. Each copy will be provided a link to the designer’s document to print off the rulebook and the stat sheets to track fighter stats as they change throughout the game. The cards are acceptable quality, the die is just an entry-level normal d6 (we were sent green with white ink), and the chips are TiddlyWink style. Everything is… fine. The art leaves some to be desired, especially in this era of gaming where art can elevate a good game to great, and a great game to amazing. This art does not help Sorrim. It’s not terrible, but it’s not wonderful either. Not my style.
All in all, the game is actually pretty decent. It is very quick-playing, especially the 1v1 mode, and after playing one game you kinda want to try some of the other fighter and sigil combinations. Any time a game makes you want to play more, that’s a great thing.
With Sorrim, my final thoughts are that it is a good game. I wouldn’t call it great, but there are several interesting mechanics and the variability/replayability built in is quite good. There are lots of two player battle card games, and Sorrim brings something a little different. The theme is enjoyable, and the gameplay is fast. There isn’t a ton of strategy involved as turns are dependent on rolling a number that matches your sigil cards, but it does deliver an easy-feeling, low-stress battle game for two. For some reason you just don’t feel annoyed when you lose, as can be the case with other PvP games. If you are looking for something in your collection that gives you this quick gameplay and is relatively rules-light, head over to The Game Crafter and give Sorrim a try.
